Star Gazing in Nevada
I have found the best site for star gazing, although I am definitely not the first.
We have a cabin just east of the Kolob cliffs in Zion National Park, the elevation is approximately 10,000 feet. The stars there are breath taking and there is no light pollution, but of all the areas I have visited, none hold a candle to Rachel Nevada.
The trip to Rachel from home is a fun one, but that's another blog. I hate the dessert, but the three trips to Nevada I took this summer will always be some of my most memorable. Depending on the direction you take make sure you have plenty of fuel. The nearest gas station following Ash Springs, for instance, is 110 miles.
Rachel does have a small bar and grill and the food is decent, but no gas. If you have been traveling long, order a glass of lemonade it was really good. They also carry more than enough Alien souvenirs to satisfy anyone. be nice the the locals though, some are really wacko! Some really believe the conspiracy theories, and some claim to have been abducted. The owners do it all in fun and as a marketing gimmick, but there are others that get really bent out of shape if you question them.
Before your trip, know the current lunar cycles, no matter the size of the moon, you'll need it to set early in the evening or you'll be up all night. Also make sure to plan your trip in June or September, anything else is too cold or way to HOT! Even at these times, take plenty of water and stay hydrated.The days are warm to hot but the nights are very cold, come prepared! The temp hit 95 the day we arrived, that night we had frost! My ears nearly broke off!
On Nevada Highways you can pull off anywhere to camp, open fires are not recommended and the State asks that the public stay in a previously used site when possible. Don't drive the roads after dark if you can help it, there are no fences and it is all open range for cattle. They are at times all over the road! Camping is very quiet and Private and you'll be lucky to see two cars all night. Don't stay in Rachel, travel to the west of the community about 2-4 miles on the E.T. Highway. The E.T Highway starts at Ash springs and ends at Tonapha, it is a long stretch with very straight roads.
We camp in the bed of our pickup, it provides the best view of the sky and it is easy to wake up and just open your eyes a 2:00am, it also helps you avoid all the weird creepy crawlies!
What ever you see after the sun sets it is nothing compared to 2:00am. Set your alarm, it is amazing.
The sky is a pure and perfect black, the only thing I could compare it to was unblemished black velvet. At one time I used the same comparison to describe the mountain sky, but this is unlike anything you have ever seen. All stars are in three dimension, some appear much closer than others and it feels as if you could reach out and pick one up. The Milky Way Galaxy fills the center of the sky and multiple satellite's can be seen at the same time. Following the sunset, the areas sun driven wind ceases, by the time star viewing begins it is very peaceful and quiet.
Where I'm from, coyotes howl at the moon. All three times I visited Rachel it's easy to spot a coyote throughout the day, they even raced our truck... but that too is another blog, they are quiet until sunrise as their howls fill the valley.
We counted 37 satellites, 2 fighter jets from Groom Lake Air Force Base (Area 51), 52 shooting stars (without a meteor storm), two meteors (wow), a one object no brighter than a satellite but it would speed up and slow down and CHANGE direction. It was on the Extraterrestrial Highway though and I did drink one to many root-beers before bed.
The first Meteor we saw was the most amazing thing I have ever seen in the sky. It crossed the entire valley but must have still been to far away, there was no sonic boom. About mid way across the sky, it split with two distinct sections pushing a mushroom shaped atmospheric cone as it went, trailing visible fire from behind. just before it disappeared over the western skyline, it split again, now three pieces! The fire trial actually burned a line in the sky for several seconds after it ended! WOW!
I was actually traveling on a week long with my son, exploring ghost towns, prospecting for gold and mining for opals. But I was so impressed I took my wife back for a weekend and then my sister a few weeks later.
When you go, check out my future blogs on other things to do while you are there including one of the best ghost towns I've been to. Two words of caution: (1) The State of Nevada rarely closes up open mine shafts, They simply post "Stay Out, Stay Alive". Due to what caused some of the miner deaths (mine shaft air, etc.), I recommend you stay out! (2) Area 51 is no joke, if you get to close to any of the three gates, (Groom Lake, Black Gate or Cedar Gate), you will find an M-16 in your face and you will be arrested! There is no warning, this is a highly secret base. While star gazing, look at the hill side to the south, all night we watched as black hum v's patrolled the ridge line, no lights, just the occasional tail lights.
I know I'm going back. Have fun and read future blogs for great camp recipes and bring binoculars or something to get a close look at Planet X, UFO's, Elvis, etc.
EER
Close Encounters... The True Story
As promised, I wanted to share my experiences in Rachael Nevada, this past summer. My son and I originally took this route in our trek across Nevada, for the star gazing, but area 51 is a fun place to say you’ve “been there, done that”. We started our trip entering Panaca, Nevada from Utah. No offense to those who live there, but there isn’t much to see. There is a really interesting stone carved porch and balcony on a home; down the main drag and near the center of town, worth seeing.
The State Park of Cathedral Gorge is one mile north of town and is very cool, but yet another blog. A town worth stopping at would be Caliente, next on the route to Rachael from Utah on hwy 93. A historical railroad town with a good museum and the nik-nak shops are a definite distraction. The real hidden treasure here is hwy 317 running south under the railroad. Between the Kershaw-Ryan State Park, the one room school house, Etna cave, and a dozen other prehistoric and pioneer sites along this road I need to leave it for an additional blog. Reserve a full afternoon or day for this area, my son and I had nowhere near enough time, so I returned with my sister and then my wife. By the way, there is a really nice shooting range in Caliente, but do the research first before bringing a gun in from out of state. Nevada does not honor Utah gun permits.
Once back onto hwy 93, resist the temptation to visit the ghost town of Delamar. It’s located approximately 17 miles southwest from Caliente, a left hand turn and easy to miss. It is an excellent ghost town, one of; if not the best I’ve been to, but one needs a four wheel drive (with decent clearance), and at least two days in this town and will still not see everything. It is hosted by BLM but is on private land, so be respectful. The ideal experience is to camp with in the town, this place is really cool. I will also do a blog just on this town.
On the road between Delamar and Ash Springs, watch for bubble formed rocks flowing together. I don’t know what makes these different from an average lava flow, but they are cool. I have speculated that the lava had difficulty flowing smoothly with the high lead deposits in the area. If someone out there knows for sure I would love to hear from you.
Next along the road is the turn off to Ash Springs and Alamo. This is a great pit stop and a recommended area to fuel up. There is no fuel in Rachael and it is 120 miles to Tonopah from Ash Springs. The maps and AAA recommend Warm Springs, between Rachael and Tonopah, for refueling. All that is left, however, is rust and peeled paint. Alamo is the best for fuel prices and groceries; the lodging isn’t half bad either.
Ash Springs is only a shell of what it used to be. The large spring and swimming area is now privately owned. There is a very nice smaller swimming area and soaking basin that is maintained by the State and it’s free. The entrance is located right across the street from the Ash Springs station. It is not well marked but if you ask directions it is easy to access. I highly recommend a quick dip before exploring the deserts of Extra Terrestrial Highway, they do have changing rooms. Also check out the gargantuan cottonwood tree at the station.
The map shows a distinct right hand turn to the north, once you’re back on the road, but it’s more like a “Y”. Stay to your left on highway 375 and look for the sign “Extra-Terrestrial Highway”, it’s covered in lots of stickers… From visiting Aliens I think. Avoid the “Alien Research Center” on the right side of the road. It has never been open when I have gone through, even when it says “Open”. I asked the locals and found it to be a touchy subject with them. I guess this guy applied for a large government grant for an area information site and got it. He built the cheap attraction as a cover and spent the rest. They say it is never open.
Here’s the scoop on Rachael Valley. There is a lot to see, contrary to your first impression on the highway. Not many people actually live in the town of Rachael any longer and many of those who do are fanatical abduction-ists. My first experience was a lot like stopping over in Kingman Arizona, age 10, at a Grey Hound station with a schizophrenic woman claiming wildly that I was her child!... but I digress.
Met a man in the bar and grill who claims a Native American “Shaman” told him to quit his job, walk away from every one and move to Rachael, Nevada. I was initially perplexed with the reference of “Shaman”. I’ve heard of Medicine Men and Tribal Leaders, just to name two, but I don’t believe the term Shaman is used among any of the Nations. I couldn’t resist, I made small talk;
“So we were hoping to see some fighter jets from the base do some fly over’s today, but they must be deployed to Afghanistan, we haven’t seen any activity.”I pried, he was half drunk.
He was quick to respond, “Oh… there is more activity then ever,… you can’t see them though, they are using cloaking devices!... Hey you want to see a real one?”
I was working hard not to laugh at him, “Real what, fighter jet?”
“No, an alien.” With that he spun off his bar stool and headed for the back of the room. We took our glass of lemonade and followed. Shaking he pointed, “This one here, that’s fake… but this one here that’s the real thing!”
He looked around nervously and went out side with out another word, finishing our iced drinks we left. As we went out the door we were able to here him around the corner talking with someone else. All I could understand was, “They have the right to know, they need to be warned.”
At the risk of being anti climatic, the lemon aid they serve is really, really good. Any way, take my word for it; most of the people you will deal with don’t fall far from that same tree. The people are very kind, even said. Please don’t expect free services if you go, but the cashier who cashed me out after my Alien Burger, refused to charge me for a bag of ice, “I ain’t chargin’ for plastic and frozen water.” We did have to change Ice about every 6-8 hours.
Don’t stay in town, camp this one, and open air is the best for star gazing. We make a bed in the back of the pickup, best view with no creepy crawlers. This will not protect you, however, from an alien incursion. Please read my blogs “Star Gazing in Nevada and Salmon Hobo with a Flare.” Remember, the days are hot and the nights are very cold, usually about a 40 to 50 degree difference.
You will hear a lot about “Area 51”, Steer clear. The owner of the bar and grill, (Little Ale’ inn), has designated her self as the prophet of doom! She will warn you till she’s blue in the face, but as eccentric as she is she isn’t far from the truth. NEVER approach the military instillation from two of the three entrances. Groom Lake and Black Gate roads are watched constantly, and if you get two close, you will get an M-16 to the face, you will be arrested, and you will spend time in the County Jail with a $5000 fine.
Absolutely do not explore the dark hills to the south of Rachael, it is unclear where the border to the base is and the area is patrolled by multiple black humm-v’s. They are really cool if you get the chance to see one drive down the highway. After dark it is cool to look at those hills through binoculars, they use no head lights but braking tail lights are seen all night.
Remember, you don’t have too many rights out there, this is one of the most secure and top-secret military installations in the world.
The third entrance is the least restrictive, “Cedar Gate”. This turn off about twelve miles south of Rachael, is the same road you take to see the cool little 1800’s ghost town, Cedar Pipeline Ranch. The ruins are fun to walk through but the biggest twilight zone feeling I had was to find a WWII USMC jeep hood in the barn, (past abduction I’m sure). Expect to be approached by at least armed BLM officers and possibly armed response officers, (subcontracted by the Air Force). Seven miles further is the Air Force guard shack. Don’t believe the armed response officers if they tell you, “go ahead, you can just drive right up to the shack.”
I don’t know if they were bored and wanted to have some fun or what, but a quarter of a mile from the shack we came to an old fence with various signs warning against going beyond that point. Two Air Force MP’s also walked out on to the road ahead of us, crossed their arms and watched… we turned back.
After all was said and done.
We did see some fly over’s, three different high altitude and one ground strafing war game between a Navy fighter and an Air Force fighter, yes they were that close to the ground. Everything shook and the wing colors and insignia were easy to see. The road side has a lot of warning signs about low flying air craft, but I didn’t realize how low. Maybe they thought the cloaking device was engaged.
Don’t bother looking for Colonel Sanders; based on the Google satellite image seen from space. We wasted two hours trying to find it before someone explained it was created over several fields and dismantled right after the satellite snapped the picture; A marketing gimmick between Google and KFC.
The road signs you see on TV showing a cow beaming up to a flying saucer, have been replaced. I guess the flying saucer was a sticker someone put on the sign. The open range cattle signs, however, are all too real. There are no fences controlling the cattle and they seem to flock to the highway after dark.
Check out the “ID4” monument and time capsule out side the bar and grill in Rachael. It was erected after filming the movie “Independence Day”, and is to be opened on July 4th 2025 or 50’, I can’t remember.
The wildlife in the area is surprisingly active. We saw plenty of antelope, cotton tail rabbit, and the deserts version of a chipmunk with its tail wrapped up and over its back. The ranger I spoke with said they are just called chipmunk, but it was unlike the ones back home.
The coyotes are really interesting, we didn’t hear from them at night with or with out the moon, but they sure go wild at sunrise. We saw several; one old discolored Coyote was getting into a heard of cattle and another much younger, raced my truck up a dirt road for a couple hundred yards.
There are several other 19th century ruins and historical markers in the area that I haven’t mentioned, but the area is a lot of fun even if you are at all like me and hate the desert. This simple and quick trip is one of my wife’s favorite road trips and she wants to go back.
Happy encounter hunting, live long and prosper.
EER
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